Beginner’s Guide to Skincare Basics: Cleanse, Exfoliate, Tone

When I meet with patients for a virtual skincare consult, the first thing I do is bring it back to the basics. Before diving into serums, actives, or add-ons, your routine needs a solid foundation: cleansing, toning, and exfoliating.

Do You Really Know Your Skin Type?

Your cleanser should match your true skin type and concerns—not just how your skin “feels.” A common mistake I see is patients calling their skin “dry,” even when they’re dealing with breakouts, visible pores, or oily areas.

When we think about the skin’s job, it doesn’t make sense for it to be naturally cracked and flaking—that would mean the barrier (your skin’s protective shield) isn’t doing its work to keep external irritants out. In many cases, what people call dryness is actually an altered or compromised skin barrier (a weakened shield). That distinction matters, because choosing the wrong cleanser can make the barrier even weaker, while the right one can help restore balance and set the stage for healthier skin.

👉 My recommendation: cleanse twice daily.

If you’re truly dry—whether from living in a low-humidity climate or from a compromised barrier condition like eczema—you’ll want to reach for a gentle cleanser without active ingredients. Options like ZO Gentle Cleanser or Hydrinity Prelude Cleanser cleanse effectively without disrupting the skin’s already delicate barrier.

If your skin is oily or breakout-prone, you’ll benefit from a more active-based cleanser, such as ZO Exfoliating Cleanser or Epionce Lytic Gel Cleanser, both of which use botanical derivatives (plant-based actives) to cut through excess oil without stripping the skin.

You may even find that your skin benefits from different cleansers at different times of day. In the morning, a lighter option can gently remove overnight buildup—or you might prefer something invigorating, like Epionce Lytic Gel Cleanser with its menthol-based cooling effect that helps you feel refreshed and awake. At night, when you’re preparing to use more active treatments, a gentler cleanser may be the right choice to support your skin barrier. This step is nuanced and flexible depending on your skin, but it’s always required for skin health.

Do You Really Need a Toner?

Once your skin is cleansed, it needs to be balanced. Did you know your skin naturally thrives at a lower, more acidic pH? This environment strengthens the barrier and makes it harder for external pathogens to get in.

For many people, “acid” sounds intimidating. I get it—if you’ve ever used harsh astringents as a teenager (I still remember those neon bottles from the drugstore), you might have some skincare PTSD. While some of the ingredients overlap, those older formulas were often too concentrated and unbalanced, leaving skin irritated and worse off.

The difference today comes down to formulation. ZO Complexion Renewal Pads still use familiar actives, but they’re blended in the right ratios with hydrating elements and soothing botanicals. The result: a toner you can comfortably use daily that supports your skin instead of stripping it.

For those with a truly compromised barrier, another option is Hydrinity Hyacyn Active. This product doesn’t rely on AHAs or BHAs (like lactic, glycolic, mandelic, or salicylic acid). Instead, it uses hypochlorous acid (a natural molecule your white blood cells release when fighting infection or calming inflammation). Spritz it on after cleansing to set your skin up for success, and keep it on hand throughout the day for a refreshing, calming boost.

👉 My recommendation: tone 1–2 times daily.

Why Is Exfoliation So Important?

The final foundational step is exfoliation. This is often the missing piece for patients who feel “dry” but are actually dealing with buildup. Without exfoliation, dead skin cells create a tight barrier on the surface, trapping moisturizer above instead of letting it absorb.

That’s why skin can still feel dry even after applying layer upon layer of cream—the hydration mostly evaporates off. Does some get through? Sure, but not nearly enough to hydrate effectively, and it does nothing to remove that outer layer of dead skin in the first place.

Gone are the days of chunky scrubs like the old St. Ives Apricot Scrub. While larger exfoliants may work fine on the body (think rough patches or keratosis pilaris—aka “chicken skin”—on the arms and legs), the face requires something much finer.

Think of it like sandpaper: coarse grit and fine grit both remove material, but the finish they leave behind is very different.

There’s one physical exfoliant I consistently recommend—and patients always have the same reaction: “Wow.” After just one use, skin feels softer, smoother, and noticeably brighter. ZO Exfoliating Polish. (Here’s a great article from ZO that explains exfoliation in even more depth.)

👉 My recommendation: exfoliate at least 3x per week.

By removing dead surface cells, exfoliation not only improves texture but also allows your other products—moisturizers, serums, and treatments—to actually penetrate and perform the way they’re meant to.

Building on the Basics

With just these three steps—cleanse, tone, exfoliate—the rest of your skincare routine will thrive. Even without adding anything new, refining this foundation usually leads to noticeable improvements. And as with all things skincare, the most important ingredient is consistency.

Which step do you skip most often—cleansing, toning, or exfoliating? Comment below!

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Prefer step-by-step guidance? Book a virtual skincare consult here.

Board-Certified Physician Associate